Backpacking #13 - Dolly Sods Wilderness

I think of Dolly Sods as a backpacker's playground; almost an outdoor obstacle course. Despite a maximum elevation of just over 4000 feet, it can be quite challenging and it is never boring. The weather has a habit of changing without warning and the landscape is as varied as I've seen in the Mid-Atlantic, particularly in such a small area.

Pearson and I were joined by our good friend Mase for this little adventure into the woods. Mase had decided a few months earlier that he loved the outdoors and was itching to get some experience with mother nature. In September Mase, myself and my youngest brother made a valiant attempt to summit all 14,264 feet of Mt. Evans near Denver Colorado. That was Mase's first real hike and no, we didn't drive to the top. I estimate we made it to about 13,500 feet before the altitude kicked our butts. Headaches, dizziness and some rockin' sunburn are a serious deterrent to climbing.



However, undaunted we decided to try a different kind of challenge, Dolly Sods.

We left the DC suburbs with clear skies and bright sunshine overhead. The drive out to the Monongahela National Forest took about 3.5 hours and by the time we started up the winding gravel road to the Sods the sky was overcast and the mercury had plummeted. At the top of the ridge we stopped at the large parking area and got out to put on some warmer layers. By the time we stepped out of the car it had started to sprinkle. By the time we had the trunk open and our packs out it was raining. By the time we put on our rain jackets it was hailing and the wind was blowing hard enough to physically move you if you didn't brace yourself against it. I have a feeling Dolly Sods was trying to show us who was boss. We had a good laugh, with maybe a hint of nervousness hidden in it, and hopped back in the car to drive the rest of the way to the Blackbird Knob trailhead.

Dude, we just got hailed on! Let's go backpacking!

There were a good number of backpackers getting ready to head out into the woods when we arrived. Apparently the Sod's little weather outburst wasn't intimidating anyone. After a couple minutes wait in the car the clouds started to break up and the rain reduced to a misty drizzle. After warning another group of the consequences if we found them set up at our intended campsite we threw on our packs and started hiking.

We almost missed seeing any colors at all.

The first bit of the trail is lush and green. Rhododendron close in on either side of you and the ground is covered with mud deep enough to suck your boots off. Further along, as you gain some elevation the trees thin and you begin to see open grassy areas and fields of knee high scrub brush.

With only one wrong turn (my bad) and just a few encounters with other hikers we arrived at the area we'd planned to set up camp. Luckily it was not occupied by any other backpackers or we would have had to arm wrestle over it.

Home sweet camp.

Pretty nice view.

The skies were full of big thick clouds as we started to set up camp and the wind was ripping through the trees. I've never seen clouds move so quickly as that afternoon. As the sun started to set and the wind kept howling I realized it was going to be a chilly night. We got a nice size fire going but with the wind gusting from all directions we weren't able to get much heat from it. We did however warm up due to running from plumes of smoke and making sure any sparks that flew away didn't catch the forest on fire.

We all had some hot and delicious freezer bag meals for dinner and after the thrill of the fire died out we headed for bed. Apparently Mase didn't sleep that well (which is expected for your first night sleeping in the woods) but we all got at least a few hours shut-eye.

Our second day turned out to be beautiful. The wind still whipped around now and then but it wasn't the constant barrage we'd had the night before. We planned to take it easy, do some day hiking out to Rocky Ridge and scramble over the boulders there.

Ahh clear skies and bright sunshine in the morning!

After a quick breakfast we headed out. A few hours later we were standing on the ridge overlooking Canaan Valley. It was a little disappointing to look down and realize there were houses within rock throwing distance of us. I like to feel that the areas where we go to backpack on the East coast are at least somewhat remote but moments like those tend to shatter that illusion.

I think Mase is holding Pearson at knife point here. I don't know why.

On the trail.

On the trail.

On the trail.

The ridge... how touching.

We eventually headed back to camp where we did what guys have been doing in the woods for years: eat snacks, drink whiskey, make fires and tell stories. I think we were zipped up in our sleeping bags by 10PM.

Camp food is the best food.

Yep, he's excited.

Time for ghost stories! Mase, you go first. Mase? Where'd he go?

The next morning we decided to make a quick getaway so we inhaled a few cereal bars, packed up camp and headed back down the trail. It always seems to me that the hike out is much shorter than the hike in. In what felt like no time at all we were loading our gear back into the car, taking the traditional group picture and saying goodbye to Dolly Sods once again.

This was a great trip. We made it out just at the end of the color changing season so all was not brown and dead looking. I think Mase had a good time on his first backpacking trip (he wasn't eaten by a bear so that's a good start). Pearson didn't wake the dead by snoring and I managed to not further injure my broken finger despite the fact that at the time I didn't even realize it was broken yet! We'll be back again next year I'm sure.

Looking down from the Sods.

Looks like some ruffians to me.